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标题: [2011年SIHH新款]F.P Journe OCTA UTC [打印本页]

作者: 爱表族官方新闻 时间: 2011-1-21 11:05:55 标题: [2011年SIHH新款]F.P Journe OCTA UTC

OCTA UTC
Octa 系列增添新成员──UTC 世界标间腕表

格林威治时间（Greenwich Mean Time，简称GMT）源于十九世纪，原意就是以英国伦敦格林威治皇家天文台的平均太阳时为基准。英国海军以格林威治子午线为起点，在航行中计算经度和船只的位置；1847 年，英国一所铁路公司亦以格林威治时间来设定列车行驶的时间。

1880 年，英国更把格林威治时间设定为官方时间。在其后的二十世纪，世界各国均普遍以格林威治时间为标准。此情况一直维持至1972 年，格林威治时间才渐渐被「世界标间」（Universal Time Coordinate，简称UTC）取而代之。

传统制表业界不时会以GMT 为两地时间腕表的依据。GMT 与UTC 虽于时间的测量上颇为接近，两者却并非一致。GMT 以地球自转为本，UTC 则以国际原子时为基础。所以，UTC 象征着当代划分时区的视野，它多以一整个小时为单位，与地球真实的转动直接连系，而且鲜有变化。

通过Octa UTC ®，F.P.Journe 再度展现其创意和革新精神。这枚腕表拥有一个专利设计，它以一整个小时为单位，透过机械部件的运作，准确地显示不同地理位置的夏令和冬令时间，体现当代划分时区的标准。

表盘上的蓝色指针显示主时区的时间，当中的齿轮系连接日期装置，为佩戴者显示主时区的日期；而玫瑰金指针则显示全球24 个时区的时间。

运作
只要按动4 时位置的按钮，便可轻易地调校主时区的时间。把表冠拉出至位置2，佩戴者可把第二时区调校至0，这样玫瑰金指针便会同步自行作出调校，并显示该时区的冬令时间。至于+1 / -1 的刻度设计，则让佩戴者根据所选时区的方位（东或西），把第二时区调校至夏令时间。

这枚自动上炼机械机芯以18K 玫瑰金铸造，与所有F.P.Journe – Invenit et Fecit 腕表的设计同出一辙。它以1300.3 型机芯为基础，即使增设一项复杂功能，其体积和厚度仍然保持不变。表盘上除了设有偏心式小时、分钟、小秒针、飞返动力储备显示、大日期显示外，更首度配备一个第二时区显示盘，显示盘上的地球缀有时区刻度。佩戴者每月须以人手调校日期一次
（拥有三十一天的月份除外）。

OCTA UTC 拥有独特而灵活的自动上炼装置，偏心式摆铊以22K 玫瑰金铸造，配备一个能大幅减少磨擦的陶瓷滚珠轴承系统，能单向转动并有效于瞬间把手部的轻微活动转化为腕表的能量。

F.P.Journe 的Octa Collection 于2001 年问世。一系列自动上炼的机械腕表拥有长达5 天（120 小时）的动力储备，是现时唯一一款能在搭载不同功能的机械部件的情况下、整体厚度仍然保持不变的机芯。

机械规格 – OCTA UTC
机芯：机芯编号FPJ 1300-3，自动上炼，以18K 玫瑰金铸造（4N）
单向自动上炼
偏心式摆铊以22K 金铸造，缀以扭索饰纹
三段式表冠：把表冠拉出至位置2 并顺时针转动，可调校24 小时时区
把表冠拉出至位置2 并逆时针转动，可调校日期
把表冠拉出至位置3，可调校时间
瞬跳式日期显示
按动4 时位置的安全按钮，可调校第二时区显示盘
宝石数目：40
机芯尺寸：整体直径： 30.80 毫米
机芯直径： 30.40 毫米
整体厚度： 5.85 毫米
主把芯高度： 3.00 毫米
把芯螺纹直径： S0.90 毫米
各项显示：偏心式小时及分钟
偏心式第二时区显示
小秒针设于4:30 位置
第二时区显示盘设于7:30 位置，显示盘上的地球缀有时区刻度
冬令时间及夏令时间
大日期及动力储备显示设于9:00 位置
打磨修饰：桥板以18K 金铸造，缀以日内瓦圆形饰纹
主夹板以18K 金铸造，作圆形条纹打磨
所有螺丝顶部均作抛光及倒角打磨
齿轮作打磨及倒角处理
卡钳末端作圆形打磨
擒纵系统： 15 齿擒纵轮
平衡摆轮： 4 颗调整砝码
扁平式Anachron 摆轮游丝
活动式外桩座
摆轮游丝以Nivatronic 激光焊接于外桩
游丝另一端夹于内桩
频率：每小时21,600 频（3Hz）
惯性：每平方厘米10.10 毫克
擒纵叉摆幅：52°
摆轮摆幅：
表面向上 / 上满炼 > 300°
表面向上 / 剩余24 小时 > 280°
动力储备：120 +/- 12 小时
表盘：表盘以白金或玫瑰金铸造
小时及分钟，小秒针盘以纯银铸造，缀以扭索饰纹
日期显示盘以纯银铸造
表壳：铂金或18K 玫瑰金
直径 38 或40 毫米
厚度 10.6 毫米
零件数目：机芯，不连表盘 301 件
机芯连表壳及皮带 342 件
上炼速度：摆铊逆时针转动274 次，可提供24 小时动力储备
WWW.FPJOURNE.COM

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作者: kmpn 时间: 2011-1-22 00:29:17

原帖由 爱表族官方新闻 于 2011-1-21 11:05 发表
[2011年SIHH新款]F.P Journe OCTA UTC ...

F.P. Journe 貌似没有在SIHH参展,
他会在自己的工作坊展示新作品...

作者: 小西瓜 时间: 2011-2-1 22:11:39

何时可以拥有兔年努力争取吧[s:92] [s:92]

作者: 独处快乐 时间: 2011-2-2 10:16:57

关键是不太好找，这个东西。不过总有一天还是要来一块的

作者: 凯文bai 时间: 2011-2-2 18:37:19

绝对的好表:@ [s:92] [s:92]

作者: bluesky_8888_7 时间: 2011-2-9 13:30:10

好东西啊,小众品牌........

作者: 眼镜蛇 时间: 2011-2-18 17:58:45

有钱也不一定预订的到，产量少。

作者: dongfangbuxing 时间: 2011-2-22 16:02:50

独特的FPJ[s:92] [s:92] [s:92]

作者: dookie 时间: 2011-4-23 12:01:45

原帖由 kmpn 于 2011-1-22 00:29 发表

F.P. Journe 貌似没有在SIHH参展,
他会在自己的工作坊展示新作品...

对的，08年有幸和香港及日本媒体参观过一次，老头很精神，在日本很受关注

作者: 蓝毛毛 时间: 2011-6-10 19:26:10

那块地球的画面可以转动吗？

作者: savian 时间: 2011-6-11 16:26:14

我也想知道楼上的问题，FP真的好好看！[s:92]

作者: qiujingxiang 时间: 2012-1-12 23:36:15

去年巴塞尔和日内瓦表展的两地时（世界时）总共出了三块好东西，分别来自VC、宝玑和FPJ，还是最喜欢宝玑那块，这块排第二:@

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