[BaselWorld] De Béthune, experimental future.

Pifpaf

I was quite astonished by the presenceof De Bethune at Basel World, they launched plenty novelties duringthe WonderWeek of Geneva and thus I supposed that De Bethune wassimply going to represent the same timepieces…
Anyway, I didn’t mean to be mean,once again they just surprised me. Overall one could expectDB28Tourbillon, even the DB25QP, but the DBM was acompletebreath-taker.
Mr. Pons announced in Business Montres,that they were preparing a hybrid object touching as well othersphere than a watchmaking field…
I imagined something “verywatchmaking”, a navy chrono (1:1), a planetarium, a completelytraditional object, on the contrary, I found my self vis-a-vis ahybrid object, addressing another audience,much more than the DB10new edition. De Bethune tries to conquer customers which forsookwristwatches, I’ll come back to it later on. Above all, the mostbeautiful watch of the entire exhibition, the DB28T, when I say themost beautiful watch of the exhibition, I say it considering allobjective points, all direct competitors of DB made the same remark(nevertheless, I quote under cover of anonymity) «GROOOOAAAAANNNN».








Logically, to complete the line DB28,De Bethune presents a new variation of the DB28, which embodies allqualities of the dream Watch One, Dream Watch Toubillon and the oneof DB28. In detail, I am talking about the dial bridges of DreamWatch One, namely the fabulous steel bridges blackened by oxidation,further the case of the DB28, and obviously   the tourbillon of DreamWatch Tourbillon.
It is the model, which I dreamt to see,it’s been 18 months, during the Wonder Week 2010, and while takingphotos of Dream Watch One and the DB26, almost 18 months after theyhave been launched…
The speed of creation and constructionof this collection is impressive, as if De Bethune would haveprojected it in a large particle accelerator in CERN. In fact, onecan witness the ultimate result (?), aesthetic and technical researchproceeded by the duet Zanetta-Flageollet during 9 last years. I spokeabout “total manufacture” in terms of De Bethune, and I foundDB28T as an absolutely beautiful watch. In this sort of moment, Iregret not having the talent of photographer Guy Lucas de Peslouan,having taken photographs before last day in a state of advancedphysical decay, because the watch is splendid from every singleangle, and deserves way more than my poor pics...












It is much more than a simple variationof the DB28, it is a perfection, an idealized version of a watchwhich was already astounding, the tourbillon 30 seconds includes DeBethune technologies, spiral silicon with terminal flat curve(understand not round), the platinum/silicon balance, here in analmost traditional form, however, the periphery is out of platinum,and center it out of silicon.
There are only slight differencescompared to the DB28, but they completely change the whole watch. Thedimensions of De Bethune on the bridge of principal dial leave placeto blackened steel, the tourbillon replaces advantageously balanceunit/moon phase, which creates almost a hypnotic effect, undoubtedlypurpling (?) parts and with interesting asymmetry of itsconstruction.
The watch has a terrible aspect,whereas the DB28 sound like an architectural work of art, in thiscase, in contrast, with ultra light aspect of the case, the dial withbestial aspect (that we can also find in case of DB24), with itsmechanically furious side, so much it could remind engine of a caroutgoing from Mad Max with its bridges of blackened steel and itsvibrating tourbillon.




De Bethune declines the DB15QP inDB25QP in a more classical way, it takes again the case of the DB25,with the movement and the dial which equips the DB15 and in amodified version the DB26 (of which case evolved to the case of DB28,you are always there?), this watch also comes, logically, to completethe line of the DB25, nevertheless, the value added is small comparedto the DB15. The rest of the watch is fabulously finished, thus fromall points of view, this is one of the most beautiful QP of the watchindustry.












Sometimes, I think that I am already inthe process of out-of-dating, that I am completely out of nowadays,that I do not understand the object, that I was a devotee of thepocket watch 100 years ago, so much I didn't have still digest digestthe machine, the thing, the cover of telephone, the object whichupsets my codes.

The DBM is more than a green cover of atelephone. It is an attempt to put to the center of the personalaccessories’ device the pocket watch. It is an attempt to makecohabit a pure object of collection with the object of pureconsumers’ utility.
The main idea behind this project isthe same one like the one that made generate the DB10, it should openrelatively closed markets to the ultra-elitism of niche of DeBethune.
Whereas the DB10 was satisfied topropose De Bethune Low-Cost, out of noble metal, however without allthe patents De Bethune (spiral curves by Flageollet, balance withdouble ballasted arms), a product intended to compete with theAmericans 1921 and another Lange1, the DBM goes much, much further.
The project is about bringing backpeople who gave up the use of the wristwatch, by giving thempossibility to equip their accessory of central communication, theGSM/UMTS. Huge project, I recognize the handwriting of Zanetta,(since the project of education and watchmaking absolutism of DB isunder recognized by aficionados and collectors, Zanetta wants alreadyto attack an immense mass of those, who gave up the wristwatch).
This object does not convince me, therealization is flawless, it is a large DB10 enchased in a superb caseof I Phone, but that raises 3 questions:

The weight: the proto with I Phoneweights approximately 300gr, against 100g for I Phone.

Theft/loss of telephone: in this case adisaster considering the price of the object.

Logistic problems to provide new cases(they will be changeable) considering the constant turnover of themobile terminals, turn-over due to the programed obsolescence, aproduct strategy (ultra-polluting) proceed by Apple.

There are undoubtedly customers forthis kind of object, that I would have seen more readily produced byRichard Mille, considering the potential customers for this kind ofproduct it seems to be some fortunate happy-fews, quite far away fromthe traditional purchasers of De Bethune.
An astonishing product from all pointsof view, which could not be mentioned without the fact that itreminds a bit the telephone of Ulysses Nardin created for itsjoin-venture between traditional watch industry and the hipe hi-techcommunication.








For better illustration, on the wristof an Asian:



Philosophically, one could regard thatas a way of exploration of the futurism asserted by De Bethune, anattempt to come up with an object of tomorrow, and finally, in thispoint I find the interest in this object, in this always experimentalvision that De Bethune confirms with each one of its creation.
Well with a solid collection, even moreheavy patens (spiral-balance-escapement) present in almost all greatmanufactures, 3 lines of coherent and complete watches (sport,traditional, dressed aka "UFO"), beautiful and realmanufacture, De Bethune could allow to reduce the speed and therhythm of launching its new watch models, on the contrary, themovement accelerates. Acceleration and addition diversify through theDBM. One of the objects most iconic of the whole BaselWorld fair.
But obviously, what touches my heart isthe DB28T, such a perfect beauty as well perfectly inaccessible(180K), unforgettable like a young love.
With this watch they confirm to producethe most beautiful watch of BaselWorld 2011. Considering that onebuys watch before all for its aesthetics, this watch is not more thanthe pain-killer of the compliments.

freeman0528

实在是太强了。。。。。。。。赞！