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宝玑作为世界上最好的钟表品牌之一，制表工艺具有自己鲜明的特色。或者说，它的这些特色，也正是宝玑的风格、标志。
小弟看到大家讨论宝玑的时候，经常谈到诸如：宝玑针、宝玑盘以及宝玑独立编号等等。但并没有一个系统的介绍宝玑经典元素的帖子，今天我就单开此帖，介绍一下宝玑的几大鲜明制表特色以及制作的过程！
6大特色：宝玑针、宝玑独立焊接表耳、宝玑表壳、隐形签名、独立编号、宝玑盘。
Watch or clock, there is no mistaking the distinctive Breguet elegance, a legacy of its founder's own talent and taste. Fine engine-turning on the dial (guillochage) was his idea as were the blued steel hands with tips in the form of a hollowed-out apple, known as 'Breguet hands'. They are often associated with the elegant penmanship of 'Breguet numerals', widely favoured still today.
These and other hallmarks of A.-L. Breguet's inspired touch compose the most classic of watches today: time in the Breguet style, unaffected by fashion trends.
1、The Hands（宝玑针）
celebrated 'à pomme' hands in blued steel are a symbol of the fine watch. Known the world over as Breguet hands, they occupy a proud place in watchmaking vocabulary. They are unmistakable, their points hollowed out as off-centre circles, in the shape of a quarter moon or an apple (pomme).
When first created by A.-L. Breguet in 1783, they were a small revolution, their extreme delicacy and elegance worlds apart from the short, bulky, elaborate hands then in fashion. In this, as in everything he created, Breguet had a functional purpose. Breguet hands indicate time simply and precisely.
Rarely if ever are watch hands born perfect. So simple, yet so demanding to create. The procedure has not changed in over two hundred years.
The craftsman blanks out each hand from a band of steel. A series of delicate filing and shaping operations follows, to give the Breguet hand its particularly fine and precise lines. It is then placed on a customised polishing board, and polished meticulously.
Then begins the most delicate operation of all: the burnishing of the steel, to give the hands their characteristic deep-blue finish. The burnisher works with an oven or open flame, and varies the heat, according to the size and thickness of the hand. He relies on his experience, and some special tricks of the trade that he would never reveal. In his mind's eye is the exact Breguet blue, and the slightest slip of attention, or error in judging the heat, could jeopardise it.
In all, creating the hand entails over twenty separate operations. At the end of this long process, it is carefully placed on the dial, with great respect for its fragile beauty. A 'Breguet hand' has earned its name.
Besides the Serpentine hands, which take their name from their shape, A.-L. Breguet also invented the famous 'single-hand' watch under the 'Souscription' system. Extremely elegant and simple, this creation enabled the client to read the minutes and hours by means of a single hand. Ever since, this artful invention has been inextricably linked to the name of A.-L. Breguet.
The Making of Breguet Hands（宝玑针的制作过程）
（1）、It takes no less than twenty-eight stages to fashion each Breguet hand.
Facing photo: rough steel band, the raw material used for the 'à pomme' hands created by A.-L. Breguet.
（2）、Through a technique reminiscent of that used by sculptors, Breguet hands are shaped by hollowing, or the slow erosion of superfluous steel.
（3）、Facing photo: the hands are placed on a wooden polishing board.
（4）、Repeated touching up with a file and close scrutiny under magnification are usually required.
（5）、Blueing comes next, a delicate operation that demands a highly trained and ever watchful eye.
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发表于 2009-3-27 21:15:41
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