一眼就能看出的宝玑特色！

adamtwinsen

宝玑作为世界上最好的钟表品牌之一，制表工艺具有自己鲜明的特色。或者说，它的这些特色，也正是宝玑的风格、标志。
小弟看到大家讨论宝玑的时候，经常谈到诸如：宝玑针、宝玑盘以及宝玑独立编号等等。但并没有一个系统的介绍宝玑经典元素的帖子，今天我就单开此帖，介绍一下宝玑的几大鲜明制表特色以及制作的过程！




6大特色：宝玑针、宝玑独立焊接表耳、宝玑表壳、隐形签名、独立编号、宝玑盘。


Watch or clock, there is no mistaking the distinctive Breguet elegance, a legacy of its founder's own talent and taste. Fine engine-turning on the dial (guillochage) was his idea as were the blued steel hands with tips in the form of a hollowed-out apple, known as 'Breguet hands'. They are often associated with the elegant penmanship of 'Breguet numerals', widely favoured still today.
These and other hallmarks of A.-L. Breguet's inspired touch compose the most classic of watches today: time in the Breguet style, unaffected by fashion trends.


1、The Hands（宝玑针）



celebrated 'à pomme' hands in blued steel are a symbol of the fine watch. Known the world over as Breguet hands, they occupy a proud place in watchmaking vocabulary. They are unmistakable, their points hollowed out as off-centre circles, in the shape of a quarter moon or an apple (pomme).
When first created by A.-L. Breguet in 1783, they were a small revolution, their extreme delicacy and elegance worlds apart from the short, bulky, elaborate hands then in fashion. In this, as in everything he created, Breguet had a functional purpose. Breguet hands indicate time simply and precisely.
Rarely if ever are watch hands born perfect. So simple, yet so demanding to create. The procedure has not changed in over two hundred years.
The craftsman blanks out each hand from a band of steel. A series of delicate filing and shaping operations follows, to give the Breguet hand its particularly fine and precise lines. It is then placed on a customised polishing board, and polished meticulously.
Then begins the most delicate operation of all: the burnishing of the steel, to give the hands their characteristic deep-blue finish. The burnisher works with an oven or open flame, and varies the heat, according to the size and thickness of the hand. He relies on his experience, and some special tricks of the trade that he would never reveal. In his mind's eye is the exact Breguet blue, and the slightest slip of attention, or error in judging the heat, could jeopardise it.
In all, creating the hand entails over twenty separate operations. At the end of this long process, it is carefully placed on the dial, with great respect for its fragile beauty. A 'Breguet hand' has earned its name.
Besides the Serpentine hands, which take their name from their shape, A.-L. Breguet also invented the famous 'single-hand' watch under the 'Souscription' system. Extremely elegant and simple, this creation enabled the client to read the minutes and hours by means of a single hand. Ever since, this artful invention has been inextricably linked to the name of A.-L. Breguet.

The Making of Breguet Hands（宝玑针的制作过程）

（1）、It takes no less than twenty-eight stages to fashion each Breguet hand.
Facing photo: rough steel band, the raw material used for the 'à pomme' hands created by A.-L. Breguet.



（2）、Through a technique reminiscent of that used by sculptors, Breguet hands are shaped by hollowing, or the slow erosion of superfluous steel.



（3）、Facing photo: the hands are placed on a wooden polishing board.



（4）、Repeated touching up with a file and close scrutiny under magnification are usually required.



（5）、Blueing comes next, a delicate operation that demands a highly trained and ever watchful eye.

leecourtesy

宝玑啊！喜欢得一塌糊涂！！！

adamtwinsen

2、The Lugs （宝玑独立焊接表耳）

The lugs made of solid 18-carat gold, with their distinctive rounded ends, are created separately, and hand soldered to the case. They are then linked by an 18-carat gold screw attachment stem, the final touch of elegance.



The Making of Breguet Lugs （宝玑独立焊接表耳的制作过程）

（1）、Facing photo: soldering the lugs to a platinum case requires perfect mastery of temperature, which reaches 1300° C.



（2）、Facing photo: soldering the lugs to the caseband.



（3）、Facing photo: the lugs made of 18-carat gold are linked by a screw-threaded gold stem.





3、The Case （宝玑表壳）

The restrained neo-classical style of the case, in total harmony with modern taste, was a revolution when introduced by A.-L. Breguet in the last quarter of the 18th century. Cases at that time were round, bulbous and highly elaborate. Breguet imposed slim, flat cases made possible by the increasingly thin and compact construction of his movements. This streamlined form, depending for its beauty on purity of line and shape, and demanding flawless craftsmanship, remains characteristic of the Breguet watch today.



The Making of a Breguet Case （宝玑表壳的制作过程）

（1）、Facing photo: craftsman's foundry.



（2）、
'Born of the meeting between gold and fire, the precious case of a Breguet watch exalts and protects the sophisticated mechanical masterpiece it houses.'
Andrea Verdi
'Fashioned from Passion: The Case'
Facing photo:
casting gold into an ingot mould.



（3）、The bezel, which holds the crystal on the case, is sculpted using an entirely hand-guided tool.



（4）、Fluting (fine striation of the caseband) is one of the elements in the elegant and restrained decorative vocabulary developed by A.-L. Breguet two centuries ago. It was to enjoy great success. An integral part of the 'Breguet style', it can be seen on numerous early Breguet watches and is now numbered among the distinguishing characteristics - together with guilloché dials and Breguet hands - of the firm's contemporary watches.
Facing photo: the fluted pattern being achieved by cold-working gold. The caseband is being hand-fashioned on a fixed mechanical hand-rest.


[ 本帖最后由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-27 21:30 编辑 ]

sunjun5

很喜欢宝玑的风格[s:107]

adamtwinsen

4、The Secret Signature （隐藏签名）

Certain watches also possess a secret signature on the dial. Devised by A.-L. Breguet as a measure against forgery, this signature is virtually invisible, except under an almost horizontal beam of light. Even in secret ways, a Breguet watch is exceptional.





5、The Individual Number （独立编号）

It is customary for a Breguet dial to be individually numbered; a practice that began with the founder. It is a sign of the unique quality of the Breguet watch, and also enables it to be identified, and its history traced, throughout the generations to follow.





6、The Dial （宝玑表盘）

The dial plays a pivotal role in the unique character of the Breguet watch. Created from a plate of solid gold it is immediately recognisable by its delicate hand worked guilloché engraving. Yet this was not designed for beauty alone. Introduced by A.-L. Breguet in 1786, the 'guillochage' on the dial greatly enhances legibility.
The typical arrangement of the dial, with its original placing of the subsidiary dials and sectors, was also invented for easier reading. By introducing the concept of functional aesthetics, A.-L. Breguet was the true father of the modern watch.

The Guillochage （扭索纹装饰）
Very few craftsmen today still master the fine art of engine-turning on dials. The manual technique, done by means of a special lathe called a rose engine, requires rare dexterity and experience. Guiding the tool with his hand, the engraver works line by line, crossing the dial again and again to build up his delicate, complex patterns. Only years of training and his artist's eye enable him to control the spacing perfectly.
The different areas of the dial are marked on a solid plate of gold. They may then be distinguished by a dazzling choice of guilloché patterns drawn from the workshop notebooks. They may include, for the different dials and sectors, 'clous de Paris' (nails of Paris), 'paniers' (basket weave), 'vagues' (waves), 'grains de riz' or 'chevrons' (rice grain or herringbone patterns). The engraver may then frame each element in a 'crémaillère' (railway track) for optimum clarity.





本帖结束，谢谢观看！

lzhyyb

不懂英文，希望有人翻译一下。
还是要先谢谢楼主

adamtwinsen

兄台，这个我自己能看懂，要是翻译的话确实得找英语专业的人来啊。。。

nimbus

经典的宝玑表啊。从某个角度看，手表还是算宝玑啊。

lt200156048

经典经典的宝玑！
请教一下，俺看好了5907，因为本人手腕和手都小，34的盘还算合适
喜欢她的长久动力，手卷……
但是，看到坛子里很多5907或者受磁，或者摔坏  挂了，很是担忧
当然，一般情况下摔坏可能性小多了
但，谁没有一个大意的时候啊
一直犹豫中……请教LZ！

yao_xiaolv

兄台又在给我们普及知识啦 :)
长见识了!对宝玑精湛的工艺有了更深的了解了!!
顶~~

adamtwinsen

小弟怀着一颗为人民服务的芯！哈哈

adamtwinsen

回小春兄，只要您喜欢的话，5907绝对是款好表。
摔了这是外力使然，您如果对它在意的话，很少会出现这样的情况，而且什么表摔了都得废不是么？
关于受磁，这是所有手表都会有的问题，其实一般情况下，受磁是很少发生的，少把它放在电子设备周边，重要的是千万别搁在磁铁旁（比如背包上有磁扣），至少得有5cm以上的距离。普通的受磁不难修，属于小毛病，去专卖店消一下就好了，很方便！
又是小弟我老说的那句话，5907作为入门款具备了宝玑的一切经典元素，还有透底（背面动储），这样的好表值得拥有！
祝您早下决心！

lt200156048

多谢兄弟，犹豫了很久，毕竟俺米少，已 托身在苏黎世的小弟购买
可以公家8折购入，但是，因买表人身份，可能再退税7%的可能性不大，
粗算，大约60K出头，实际，犹豫的还有价格
这个经济危机的影响，俺觉得才刚刚开始……

watchlover

这贴要活。顶~[s:93]

malei0125

简约中的奢华.      
美!!!

adamtwinsen

小春兄，6w的价格已经是很不错了。其实主要在于您的喜好程度了，如果您确系爱上这块表的话，经不经济危机已经不重要了。爱表到手的喜悦会增加您的幸福生活指数，何乐而不为呢！

Justin陶

楼主都可以做宝玑的版主了饿！

猫咪

看得出adamtwinsen是真的爱表人，难得又这么热心，真是可以做宝玑的版主了，谢谢你上次回答我的问题。爱上8607BA 了，梦萦魂绕．．．还真是中毒了．

adamtwinsen

呵呵，8067是女表中非常经典的一款，能在众多花里胡哨的女表中看重breguet相信猫咪一定是一位气质MM了！

lt200156048

原帖由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-28 09:51 发表
小春兄，6w的价格已经是很不错了。其实主要在于您的喜好程度了，如果您确系爱上这块表的话，经不经济危机已经不重要了。爱表到手的喜悦会增加您的幸福生活指数，何乐而不为呢！

谢谢兄弟支持。传闻欧洲的安道尔，便宜，尚未去过那里
不知真假
一直以为英国的汇率似乎要便宜，但是，英国的同学称，根本未见过宝玑
可能与她不懂手表有关——她只认得劳、欧……
米少，不得不 算计着花
当然，俺也理解您提到的喜悦由何而来，
罗嗦一句，实际俺也是再思考一个问题
价格的定位，真的是需求决定的吗？（题外话，呵呵，胡言几句）