百年灵制造的文字部分

yuduotian

yuduotian

[s:93]  [s:93]  [s:93]
这个是pdf格式的，和下面的word格式的是一样的，不用重复下载
[ 本帖最后由 yuduotian 于 2007-7-4 21:27 编辑 ]

yuduotian

[s:93]  [s:93]  [s:93]

这个解压缩后是word的格式的
两个完全一样

yuduotian

没人回复，自己顶！[s:93] [s:93] [s:93]

JackXu

只有文字没有图，看起来比较枯燥

yuduotian

就是没有图片，不知道izzue有没有，我问他要了，他还没回复

sunboy

1
Made by Breitling
百年灵制造
A Breitling wrist instrument is a microcosm composed of several hundred parts. The sum of highly specialized professions. The fruit of many stages in manufacture where human dexterity combines with the precision of machinery. In the following pages, we invite you to look behind the scenes of a brand that shares aviation’s extreme concern with perfection. The sense of quality Made by BREITLING.
一只百年灵腕上仪表, 是由数百枚精密的零件组装而成，也是荟萃了高度精湛的技术成果。是交织着许多制造腕表过程的成果，都运用了纯熟的制表工艺和精密机器。在以下一页，我们诚邀阁下分享百年灵品牌背后的价值理念和航空界对完美的极度追求。质量的意义，那就是 “Made by Breitling”。
2-3
CONTENTS
内容
4-5
An obsession with quality
对品质的执着
Since its founding in 1884, Breitling has held a place of its own among watch brands, a highly exclusive “niche”: that of watches with a resolutely technical character – mainly chronographs. And Breitling has consistently pursued an extremely rigorous policy of quality. This global approach enables it to offer products meeting the highest Swiss watchmaking standards.
自1884年成立以来，百年灵已奠定了自己独特的市场定位，在众多名表中脱颖而出。
百年灵坚持以高度制表工艺、以生产计时表为主。百年灵不断追求极度严苛的质量要求，这全球性策略推动百年灵将所有生产的腕表，都符合瑞士生产腕表的最严格的标准。
6-7
The spirit of perfection
完美的追求
As a longstanding partner of aviation, a field where reliability and precision are of capital performance, Breitling has made its mark on watchmaking history by an impressive number of innovations and technical refinements. Whether enhancing movement precision, improving readability or reinforcing resistance water- and shock-resistance, each part of a Breitling watch is constantly optimized right from its conception, before being subjected to exhaustive testing throughout the production and assembly process. This pursuit of perfection drives Breitling to continously improve the performances of its wrist instruments and to hone their aesthetics. A philosophy that has proven its worth and will remain a constant for Breitling in the future.
安全可靠和精密准确都是航空领域的两大首要指标。作为航空界的长期合作伙伴，百年灵以多项重大技术改革和精湛工艺，在制表史上标志着辉煌的成绩。无论在机芯精确度的改进方面，还是提高了阅读、防水、防震性能上，百年灵总是从概念设计开始，就对每一个部件不断进行优化，并在整个生产和组装过程中进行各项严格的质量测试。追求完美的理念驱使百年灵对其腕上仪表的性能及外观不断创新改进，使其完全符合人体美学的要求。这种品牌理念已在百年灵的辉煌业绩中得到了印证， 恒久不变。
8-9
Historic
昔日辉煌
10-11
Historic
过往业绩
12-13
Photo Ambiance couloir Chronométrie (éventuellement à déplacer plus haut)
图片：精密计时工场的长廊
14-15
THE MOVEMENT
机芯
Breitling is the world’s only major brand to offer chronometer-certified movements on all its models. In the workshops of Breitling Chronométrie, the unit specializing in mechanical movements, component selection, assembly, lubrication, adjustment and testing meet the highest existing criteria in the field. This means sturdy, reliable and high-performance ”motors”, such as the famous Caliber 13 which powers the brand’s leader model, the Chronomat, or the pilots’ favorite, Navitimer.
百年灵的机芯全部通过了瑞士官方天文台的严苛认证，是世界上唯一拥有全线天文台认证的品牌。在百年灵的精密计时工场里，专责机械机芯制作、部件筛选、组装、润滑、调校、检测等部门均符合现有最高的业内标准进行工作。这样的机芯，正如享负盛名的百年灵Caliber 13型机芯，装配在百年灵的旗舰款式Chronomat腕表、或飞行员专用表 Navitimer等腕表中, 就像一台坚固耐用、安全可靠和性能卓越的“引擎”。
16-17
BREITLING Caliber 13 is made up of more than 140 parts
百年灵Caliber 13型机芯由140多个零件组成
Prior to the actual assembly of the movement, certain parts such as the oscillating weight shown here are pre-assembled.
先将一些机件（ 例如图示的摆轮）预先装好，然后开始对机芯进行整体装配。
Movement assembly begins by placing the winding and time-setting mechanism on the base plate. Then comes the gear-train.
装配机芯时，首先将构件上链和时间设置机件置入底板，然后装入齿轮。
The bridge of the gear-train is then fitted. The central unit of the movement is now assembled.
接着装入齿轮的支架。再往下是装入机芯的核心构件。
The sprung balance, meaning the regulating organ of the watch, is fixed to the balance-cock and then integrated within the movement. This sets the movement into operation.
将游丝摆轮（即腕表的调准装置）固定在摆轮夹板后装入机芯。机芯便开始运转。
To ensure greater reliability, certain parts are lubricated using highly accurate machinery.
采用精密仪器对一些部件进行润滑，以加强机芯运行的可靠性，。
The chronograph unit is then mounted on the movement and covered by the chronograph bridge, decorated with the ”côtes de Genève” pattern.
然后将定时器装在机芯上，最后盖上用刻有日内瓦字样的定时器桥架。
18-19
Ambiance Chronométrie
百年灵精密时计工厂
20-21
Assembling a BREITLING Caliber 13 comprises 41 check-points
百年灵Caliber 13号机芯的组装程序设有41道检查关卡
Adjusting the lift of the pallets increases the amplitude of the balance, thereby minimizing the variations in rate when the watch is in different positions.
调节擒纵掣的拉杆可增大摆轮的摆幅，以减少腕表在不同位置时的误差。
Centering the balance-spring between the curb-pins is facilitated by the use of a video system with an image greatly enlarged on the screen.
借助视频图像放大系统，将位于控制钮之间的游丝发条放置在中枢地位。
Extremely rigorous tests are performed throughout the assembly process.
在整个装配过程中,进行一系列极为严格的检测。
The dynamic poising of the watch-balance enhances the performance of each movement. The chronometer-maker’s expert hand plays an essential role in this process.
腕表平衡摆轮的动态性能决定了机芯的性能。生产精密时计的专家们的手工调试在这一工序中起着关键性的作用。
The last movement rating check is performed in five positions.
在五个不同位置对机芯性能进行最终检测。
The final quality control guarantees that the operational parameters of each movement comply with the requirements of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
最终质量检测可确保每一台机芯的运行参数完全符合瑞士官方天文台认证中心(COSC)的严苛要求。
22-23
Breitling Chronométrie: the technology behind the performance, the performance behind the technology.
百年灵精密时计工厂：技术创造佳绩，佳绩衍生技术。
In order to meet the rigorous demands of 100% chronometer production, Breitling has built an ultramodern factory on the outskirts of La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Swiss watchmaking metropolis. This unit specializes in the development and manufacture of mechanical movements. It is a place that reflects the brand’s quest for precision and quality and where the irreplaceable know-of of the watchmaker is backed by the latest high-tech equipment. Hand, eye and machine complement each other to perfection, since nothing can match robots for certain operations and industrialization enables levels of tolerance infinitely more precise than certain tasks performed by hand.
为达到全线生产精密时计的严格要求，百年灵特别在瑞士制表业之都的拉绍德封市郊建立了一座超级现代化的工厂，专门从事机械机芯的研究和制造。在这里，百年灵登峰造极的制表技术与最新的尖端设备相得益彰。制表大师们灵巧的双手、锐利的眼光与现代尖端科技的设备,彼此相辅相成。但某些工序配合精密机械的操作，便可减少手工制造成的误差。
24-25
Only 5% of watches produced in Switzerland are chronometer-certified
瑞士每年生产的腕表，只有5%能够获得天文台认证。
To guarantee absolutely reliable read-off by COSC instruments, all movements must be presented with a white working dial and a black seconds hand.
为确保瑞士官方天文台认证(COSC)的仪器能可靠地检视每个机芯，所有机芯必须配置白色表盘和黑色秒针。
Movements are rewound once a day using a machine that rotates the crown a predetermined number of turns.
用机械上链装置，并以预设的转数，每天转动机芯的表冠一次。
Precision is measured by a robot that reads the position of the seconds hand.
通过仪器检视秒针的位置，来测量机芯的准确度。
Each individually numbered movement is tested for 15 consecutive days and nights.
每一枚机芯都拥有一个独立的编号 ,都必须通过连续15个昼夜的测试。
Tests are conducted in five different positions and at three different temperatures (23°C, 38°C and 8°C).
在5种不同位置及3种不同温度(摄氏23度、 38度 和 8度)下进行严苛测试。
To earn the highly coveted title of an officially certified chronometer, the movement must meet seven criteria, including a mean variation in rate ranging from –4 to +6 seconds per day.
获得官方天文台认证的精密时计机芯必须符合七大指标，其中包括每天的误差率为少于–4到 +6秒。
28-29
THE CASE
表壳
The cases of Breitling watches are distinguished by their technical complexity, their high-end aesthetic appeal and the quality of their finish. Each of their many parts requires meticulous care. The cases are made from extremely sophisticated alloys such as antimagnetic stainless 316L steel or grade 2 titanium; they are designed to provide optimal protection against shocks and each detail of their construction has been developed and tested to stand up to intensive use.
百年灵腕表的表壳充分展现其复杂的工艺、优雅的外观和优质的表面打磨。每个部件均经过精心制作而成。表壳由非常复杂的合金材料,例如防磁不锈钢316L或二级钛金属制成。设计融入了最佳的防震措施，表壳结构中的每一个细节均承受通过高强度用途的测试。
30-31
Each CHRONOMAT middlecase is subjected to a total stamping pressure of up to 200 tons during blanking
每一枚CHRONOMAT腕表的表壳胚件均承受高达200吨的冲压成型。
The rough middlecases are blanked from a metal bar using a high-performance press.
首先采用高效冲床将金属棒材冲切成表壳胚件。
Cuttings left over from the stamping process are gathered to be recast.
冲切剩下来的碎料被收集起来，等待回炉重铸。
The middlecases then undergo eight successive stamping operations, on presses ranging from 20 to 90 tons.
表壳胚件在进行八道连续冲压工序，冲压力为20吨到90吨不等。
Each stage of machining requires a dedicated tool (swage).
每道冲压工序需使用一件特定的模具（冲模）。
Before each swaging operation, the middlecase is refired to a temperature of 1100°C so as to temporarily reduce the hardness of the steel from 250 to 170 vickers.
每道冲压工序开始前，需将表壳胚件重新加热到摄氏1,100度，以便暂时将表壳材质的硬度从华氏250度降低至到170度。
Stamping concludes with an inspection of its appearance, as well as a technical test taking account of six parameters.
冲压结束后，对表壳外观进行检验，并依据六项指标进行技术检测。
32-33
Ambiance étampage
冲压现场
34-35
The CHRONOMAT case comprises 62 parts in all
CHRONOMAT腕表的表壳由62个部件组成
To guarantee a perfect fit with the metal bracelet, the ends of the middlecases are ground to the nearest 1/100th of a mm, using a numerically-controlled diamond grinding-wheel.
为确保表壳可以准确地镶嵌在金属表链上，采用了数控钻石磨轮将表壳的两端打磨至百分之一毫米的精确度。
The middlecases undergo 7 machining operations. The luxurious finish of Breitling cases then calls for fifteen polishing operations.
表壳在进行七道机械工序，再经过十五道抛光工序，方可打造出百年灵腕表独有的豪华表壳。
The polishing operations, all carried out by hand, alternate with 9 baths guaranteeing immaculate cleanliness.
这些抛光工序均以人手进行，其间还要交替9次清洗，以确保工件洁净无瘕。
The other components of the case such as the rotating bezel also require a hand finish, particularly for drilling the screw thread and polishing.
表壳的其它部件，如旋转表圈等，同样须用人手处理,特别是钻螺丝内牙和抛光。
The four rider tabs on the Chronomat are turned from a metal ring, then engraved, blanked, and polished or satin-brushed by hand.
Chronomat腕表上的四枚表圈指示码，经由车床将金属圈切割而成，再进行雕刻、冲切及抛光,或采用人手进行磨砂处理。
Assembly of the Chronomat case as well as the aesthetic inspection are carried out exclusively using protective ”fingerstalls”.
进行Chronomat腕表的表壳装配及外观检验，都必须戴上手指护套。
36-37
Ambiance boîtier
表壳制造
38-39
THE DIAL
表盘
Featuring aesthetic sophistication, a refined interplay of raised and hollow surfaces and meticulous finishing details, the dials of Breitling chronographs and watches require mastery of the most cutting-edge manufacturing methods combining traditional know-how with state-of-the-art technologies. Each detail has been designed to enable optimal read-off of information at a glance, just as on an instrument panel.
百年灵腕表和计时表的表盘以标志着精细的人体美学，精巧的布局，精心雕琢的凹凸表面及精密的打造。这都揉和了传统技艺和最尖端的制造方法。表盘每处细节的设计务求让人一目了然，提供最佳的阅读数据效果。
40-41
Manufacturing a CHRONOMAT dial calls for 17 components
CHRONOMAT腕表的表盘由17个部件组成
The dial is blanked from a brass plate and two cylindrical feet are soldered below to ensure it holds to the movement.
表盘由件黄铜盘片冲切而成。在表盘的背后焊接两个圆柱支架，以固定机芯。
Special effects such as ”sunray brush” are achieved by the rotation of a brush over the surface coated with a special liquid.
在表盘上涂抹一层特殊液体，用刷在表盘上旋转，以获得阳光纹状的特殊效果。
Depending on the selected color (lacquered or electroplated), polishing operations are performed before or after the ”coloring” stage.
着色的方式（例如，是涂漆或是电镀）是取决于选取的颜色在抛光工序之前或之后进行。
During electroplating, based on the principle of electrolysis, dials are immersed into several successive baths through which an electric current is run.
电镀期间，依据电解原理，将表盘浸入带有电流的液缸中若干次。
The totalizers are turned one by one and then ”snailed” (decorated with spiral lines), before being colored.
用车床将累计器一个个加工出来，然后饰配用螺旋纹状线条，最后再进行着色。
27 holes are then drilled to fix the flange, the hour-markers and the 18K gold Breitling symbol.
在表盘上钻27个细孔，以便嵌入凸缘、小时标记和18K金的百年灵徽号。
P42-43
Ambiance index cadran
表盘一览
44-45
Crafting the CHRONOMAT dial involves 45 different operations
制作Chronomat腕表的表盘需要经过45个不同工序
In an immaculately clean environment, the dial is covered with a transparent protective coating of cellulose varnish.
在洁净无尘的环境中，给表盘涂上一层透明的纤维素清漆，起保护作用。
The various inscriptions are transfer printed on the dial using a gelatine pad which takes an impression from an inked block.
采用凹印胶垫将各种文字、标记转印到表盘上。
The Breitling symbol is stamped from an 18K gold strip to within 100th of a mm, then sandblasted, blanked and polished, thereby achieving subtle contrasts.
在一条18K的金条上冲压出厚度达百分之一毫米百年灵徽号，然后用砂轮机打磨、修形和抛光，以获得精美的视觉效果。
Placing and riveting the flange, the Breitling symbol and the eight hour-markers requires tremendous manual dexterity.
将百年灵徽号和八件小时标记装配在凸缘上，这需要精湛的手工技艺。
Applying a luminescent substance using a nozzle pen connected to a high-pressure pipe calls for absolute concentration.
用高压气管的喷涂笔在时间刻度上喷射夜光物质，这是需要极大的专注力。
Once finished, each dial undergoes careful examination of its appearance under a magnifying glass, as well as technical testing to ensure it complies with all the predefined dimensions.
制作完成后，每个表盘均须在放大镜下进行仔细的外观以及技术检测，以确保它符合各项预设的技术规格。
46-47
THE HANDS
指针
Making a hand such as the famous Breitling chronograph hand calls for meticulous care. Machining tolerances are minimal and handling is a truly delicate task. Few manufacturers today are able to master the finesse of blanking and quality of finish needed to meet the Breitling standards.
制作享誉全球的百年灵计时腕表的指针时，需要特别细心。要将机械加工误差降至最低，需要极为精细的加工过程。只有极少数制造商家能掌握这些生产技术并符合百年灵的严格标准。
P48-49
The hands are made from a brass strip.
指针由黄铜条制成。
The machine drills the ”center holes” for the hands as well as the ”pilot holes” which will guarantee the positioning of the strip during blanking operations.
用机器钻出安装指针的中心孔及导向孔，以确保铜条在冲切工序固定位置。
The Breitling symbol requires 3 successive blanking operations. The tip of the hand is hollowed to receive the luminescent substance.
百年灵徽号需经过三道连续冲切工序。指针尖端被镂空，以便嵌入夜光物质。
The hands are cut out and then stuck to the disc and machined by two successive diamond polishing operations.
将制作成型的指针黏在圆盘上，然后用机器进行连续两次的钻石抛光工序。
The pipe on which the hand will be riveted is machined from 3-meter long brass bars using a computerized numerical control machine.
用计算机数控机床将3米长的黄铜棒加工成管柱。指针将被铆接在该管柱上。
P50-51
The pipe is drilled to a degree of precision within ± 2 microns, meaning 1/30th of a hair’s breadth
在管柱上钻孔，钻孔精确度控制在± 2微米以内，相当于一根头发丝直径的三十分之一。
The hole of the pipe is reamed (enlarged) to within ± 2 microns so as to guarantee that the chronograph wheel is held properly on the arbor.
对钻孔进行修扩，修扩精确度在± 2微米以内，以保证定时器轮盘被准确地安装在主轴上。
After machining, the tiny pipes (inside diameter 0.25 mm, outside diameter 0.5 mm) are carefully checked.
对这个微小的管柱（内经为0.25毫米，外径为0.5毫米）的机械加工完成后，还须对其进行仔细的检查。
Riveting the hand on the pipe, with the help of a staking tool, is a meticulous task that demands optimal precision.
借助支撑工具，将指针铆接在管柱上，这是一项极为精密的工作。
To check the quality of the riveting, the rotation torque is checked when the chronograph is returned to zero. The hand must withstand torque of up to 30 Ncm.
检查铆接质量时，先将定时器归零，然后检查指针承转动扭力的强度。指针须承受30牛顿厘米以上的转动扭力。
The finish of the hand is achieved by electroplating involving several stages: leaching, degreasing, pre-nickelplating and nickelplating, along with numerous rinses.
指针的表面电镀需经过下列几道工序：过滤、去油脂、预镀镍、镀镍，之间还穿插了数次清洗。
Manufacturing the hands concludes with coating the luminescent substance, followed by a visual check. Then comes the delicate phase of inserting into designated slots in a cardboard holder for storage.
指针制作完成后，涂上一层夜光物质，然后进行外观检验。最后仔细地插入存放在柜里特定的插槽中，储存待用。
52-53
THE CRYSTAL
水晶表镜
Breitling chronographs and watches are all equipped with scratch-resistant sapphire crystals. Synthesis of this stone – the hardest after the diamond – calls upon extremely sophisticated skills and production means, and implies a large number of operations. All sapphire crystals are glareproofed both sides.
百年灵定时器及腕表的水晶表镜均采用防刮花的蓝宝石水晶玻璃。这种人造宝石的硬度仅次于钻石，其合成过程需要非常复杂的工艺和生产技术，并经过多道工序。所有蓝宝石水晶表镜的两面均经过双面防眩处理。
P54-55
The fusion-point of synthetic sapphire is 2050°C
人造蓝宝石的熔点为摄氏2,050度
To make a sapphire crystal, the basic material used is a salt cleansed from any foreign body (ammoniacal alum). Calcinating this salt at 1200°C results in its decomposition into alumina (or aluminum oxide).
蓝宝石水晶玻璃的主要原料是一种经过洗涤后除去了所有异物的盐（氨明矾）。在摄氏1,200度下对其进行煅烧，从中分解出铝氧粉（即氧化铝）。
Alumina is then extracted from the furnace and passed over vibrating sieves to obtain an extremely fine powder with a diameter of less than one micron.
将铝氧粉从煅烧炉中提取出来。通过振动筛，筛出直径不足1微米的超细粉末。
The flame of the blowpipe, heated to a temperature of 2050°C, transforms the alumina into stone with the addition of oxygen and hydrogen.
用吹氧管喷出的高达摄氏2,050度的火焰，将铝氧粉烧结成含氧和氢的人造石。
At the top of the blowpipe, a hammer striking the alumina reservoir causes it to drop regularly onto a small rod.
边喷火，边用铁锤敲打铝氧粉储槽，使铝氧粉熔浆有规律地滴落在一个小棒上。
It takes fifteen hours for the ”corundum” (crystallized alumina) to form on the rod, somewhat like a stalagmite.
15小时后，棒上形成石笋状的“金刚砂”（氧化铝晶体）。
The stones are then sorted according to their weight, shape and appearance, before being refired at a temperature of 1800°C to stabilize the material.
按重量、形状和外观对金刚砂进行筛选分类；然后在摄氏1,800度下将其重烧，以提高材质的稳定性。
P56-57
Glareproofing the crystal on both sides eliminates 99% of the reflections perceived by the naked eye
对水晶镜面作双面防眩处理，可消除99%的可见反射光。
The corundums, coated with a special resin, are sawn by thin diamond-polished blades. The discs are then separated, cleaned and sorted.
用极薄的金刚砂抛光锯片，将外涂特殊树脂的金刚石切成若干圆片，然后将圆片分离、洗净并分类。
Machining the crystal continues with grinding the diameter to within 2/100th of a mm.
对水晶镜面进行机械打磨，使镜面的直径降在百分之二毫米准确度以内。
Then comes surfacing, meaning adjusting the thickness. A first optical inspection pinpoints any possible remaining impurities.
对水晶镜面的厚度进行调整，进行首次光学检验，以检查出可能残留的杂质。
The cambered shape of the crystal is achieved by grinding the lower and upper surfaces.
对镜面的双面进行打磨，造成拱形效果。
After its angles have been beveled, guaranteeing a neat fit with the case, the sapphire crystal is chemically polished on both sides.
对镜面边缘进行斜削，以确保其与表壳的精确配合，再将两面进行化学抛光。
It is then transferred to a sterilized laboratory and placed in a vacuum furnace at a temperature of 280°C to apply the double-sided glareproofing.
最后将镜面送入无菌实验室，在摄氏280度的真空锅炉中涂上一层双面防眩剂。
P58-59
STRAPS AND BRACELETS
表带和表链
Breitling’s metal bracelets are distinguished by their unique design, high-end finish, tried and tested sturdiness and wearer comfort. To enable them to withstand the forces of traction and torsion (pulling and twisting) to which they will be subjected on a daily basis, Breitling has developed highly specific production methods and technologies. Moreover, Breitling also offers a wide range of straps fashioned from the finest hides and made with all the dexterity and know-how of specialized craftsmen.
百年灵的金属表链以其独特造型、精致外观、坚固耐用和佩带舒适而受市场青睐。为使表链能承受因日常使用而产生的拉力和扭力，百年灵研发出了专门生产的方式和技术。此外，百年灵还生产各种款式的做工精巧、工艺独到的时尚皮表带。
P60-61
The Pilot bracelet is made up of 120 parts
Pilot Bracelet（飞行员表链）由120件零件组成
Computerized numerical control machine handles sawing, drilling and profile-turning of the links from 4-meter long metal bars.
用计算机数控机床，经过锯切、钻孔、仿形车切等工艺将四米长的金属棒加工成表链的零件。
Only hand-finishing can achieve a truly high-quality finish.
只有用人手对表链的连结进行最后一道工序,才能获得最佳的质量效果。
The links are assembled by hand.
用手工将表链连结并装配成一整条表链。
The links and pins are fusion-welded (without adding material) at a temperature of 3400°C, guaranteeing exceptional durability.
在摄氏3,400度下将表链的连结与环节和轴芯溶焊为一体（不需添加焊接材料），以确保其绝对牢固。
The clasps and endpieces are made by stamping.
链扣和末端的部件是经冲压加工而制成。
Before fitting the clasp and endpieces, the two parts of the bracelet must successfully pass the visual testing procedure.
在装配表链扣和末端的部件之前，两段表链必须成功通过装配员的视觉检测。
62-63
Ambiance cuir
皮表带制造
64-65
BREITLING leather straps are made exclusively in Full Grain quality
百年灵皮革表带的精工细作
Making a leather strap begins with a visual check of the texture of the hides; the color is also scrutinized by means of a ”chronomate”.
首先对皮革质地进行目测挑选；皮革的颜色也需符合“精密时计”的档次。
The upper part which is visible on the wrist is cut out from a finely selected portion of the hide.
皮表带外层的用材必须精挑细选。
The inside of the strap, known as the ”strengthening” is mostly made up of a glass fiber agglomerate. Its various parts are cut out and assembled.
皮表带的内层，称为“加强层”，则采用一种玻璃纤维材料。将玻璃纤维材料按部件分别剪裁出来和拼接而型。
The strengthening is then placed on the upper part, before fitting the lining.
在装配内衬前，先将加强层放置在皮表带外层部份的上面。
Certain hides with a satin finish are smoothed by a rotating agate stone.
用玛瑙石在皮革表面旋转打磨，使其表面光滑亮丽。
The buckles and loops are sewn exclusively by hand. Crafting a leather strap is completed by laser-marking of the lining.
皮表带的带扣和皮圈均用手工缝制。在内衬上用激光刻上标记。
66-67
Ambiance cuirs (étapes de fabrication)
皮革（制造皮表带）
68-69
CASING UP
组装
The performances of a watch product partially depend on the quality of the air in the premises where it was cased up. To ensure the smooth operation of its chronometers in even the most testing conditions, Breitling has equipped its production building with a sophisticated system enabling constant regulation and monitoring of the humidity rate and temperature in each area. This avoids the risk of watches showing traces of condensation when exposed to lower temperatures, such as would tend to occur if they were cased up in an overly damp atmosphere. An air filter system eliminates any dust that might clog up the movements.
组装工作室的空气质量会严重影响腕表的性能。为确保每一枚精密时计在最严格的检测条件下也能正常运行，百年灵因此在各工作室引入了高科技的空气调节系统来检测和调节室内每一处的湿度和温度。这可避免手表在较低温度下出现轻微冷凝现象或是在过多湿度超标情况下组装腕表。空气过滤系统可以消除空气中的尘埃，以免阻塞机芯的运作。
70-71
The temperature in the casing-up premises is maintained between 20 and 23°C
The relative humidity rate is kept under 50% at all times
组装工作室的温度必须维持在摄氏20到23度之间；相对湿度应维持在50%以下。
The dial is placed over and fixed to the movement.
将表面罩住机芯，然后锁紧。
The hands are driven one by one onto the arbors.
将指针分别固定在各自的转轴上。
The movement/dial/hand unit is inserted and centered within the case.
然后将整个机芯/表面/指针部份装入表壳中。
The movement is then fixed inside the case by means of screw-tightened braces.
用螺丝将机芯锁定在表壳内。
Casing up concludes with screwing in the caseback. The watch is ready for the final quality control.
将底盖旋紧在表壳上，腕表组装便告完成。接下来便可进行腕表的最终质量检测。
72-73
TESTING
检测
Only extremely rigorous testing at all stages of development and production can guarantee impeccable quality. These operations range from authorization tests when creating new models to final testing before sale.
要确保质量无可挑剔，就必须在研发和生产的各个阶段实施极其严格的分段检测。当开发新款式时，这些工序包括在销售前的所有检测。
74-75
The resistance of the color on dials to ultraviolet rays is tested by placing them under a projector which simulates a 365-day exposure to sunlight within just 72 hours.
将表盘置于紫外线投射器下72小时，模拟相当于365天的日光辐射量的照射，以检测表盘颜色抗紫外线的阻力。
The final technical scrutiny of the dials takes account of 16 different parameters.
表盘的最终检验需要通过16项指标。
Engineers systematically verify the smooth operation of the rotating bezel.
工程师们对旋转表圈的运转顺畅性能进行综合检测。
They also check that the chronograph pushpieces, tested to withstand more than 15,000 pressing motions, are working correctly.
工程师们还需检测：定时器的计时按钮在承受了15,000次按压后，是否仍能保持正常运作。
The thickness of the crystal is measured to within 1/100th of a mm.
检测水晶表镜的厚度是否达到百分之一毫米以内的误差率。
Authorization tests on models in the development process involves destructive trials that push the components to the limits of their resistance.
对新研制出的型号进行检测，包括对各部件分别进行疲劳破坏试验。
76-77
A BREITLING chronometer undergoes more than 1000 tests during the production process
一枚百年灵的精密时计在生产过程中要经历1,000多次检测。
To carry out final quality control of production, all watches are rewound.
将所有需进行最终检测的腕表重新上链。
Operational parameters are individually tested, particularly the rating precision.
对各运行参数，尤其是行走时的精确度，分别进行检测。
The water resistance of each watch is tested by extremely sophisticated devices.
采用极其复杂的装置来测试每一枚腕表的防水性能。
Either the cases or the fully assembled watches are immersed into water and then subjected to a condensation test.
将表壳或完全装配好的腕表浸入水中，然后拿出来作冷凝检测。
After a visual check under the magnifying glass, the individual number of each Breitling chronometer is then laser-engraved.
将每一枚百年灵精密时计用放大镜以肉眼进行检测，然后用激光在底盖上刻有每一枚腕表的编号。
A final aesthetic and functional test is performed before dispatch.
装运前，需对每一枚腕表作最后的外观和功能检验测试。
78-79
CREDITS
信誉。

yuduotian

更需要图片！[s:93] [s:93] [s:93]

虾仔

那本厚厚的07年介绍书没写吗？

yuduotian

原帖由 虾仔 于 2007-7-5 19:19 发表
那本厚厚的07年介绍书没写吗？

这是另一本，不给顾客的