了解Jörg Schauer，了解Stowa

12ax7

Stowa现在的老板Jörg Schauer在1990年成为独立制表人，以自己的名字为品牌开始设计制作手表。其Schauer网站地址如下：
http://www.schauer-germany.com/en/werkstatt.php

其中对其制作过程进行了较详细的图文介绍，对Stowa表友应该很有帮助。

本坛朋友 挪亚 曾发过帖子《STOWA旗下品牌：schauer【制表篇】》介绍这些内容，链接如下：
http://www.iwatch365.com/thread-16013093-1-3.html

不过挪亚朋友只发了图片，我觉得Schauer网站上所配的文字说明也有些价值，所以自己将其翻译了一下，以飧大家，翻译的不当之处，也请大家指正。

正文如下：



关于Jörg Schauer
1990, at the age of 22, Jörg Schauer becomes an independent watchmaker. His target is to manufacture high-class wrist watches which combine demanding technical solutions with exceptional design.
At the beginning, this target is achieved by constructing timepieces to the ideals of competent customers - the cases are manily made of gold or platinum. But soon he also starts to create watches pleasing his personal taste. Within 5 years more than 400 watches are made; they sell worldwide and make entrance into many collections.
1995 he carries out his plan to establish the brand "Jörg Schauer” in Engelsbrand/Black Forest, and presents the first collection. Trademark is a twelvefold screwed on bezel.
Design, prototype production, movement modification and refinement, case production, coating of the dials with fine lacquer and printing of the typographical versions on those - all this is accomplished by Jörg Schauer and his few, above-average qualified co-workers. (Necessary support is preferably obtained from suppliers of the region.)
This comprehensive range of activities enables Jörg Schauer to maintain the flexibility he achieved over the years - despite the switch to serial manufacture, customers can still have (serial) models which contains old stock movements or limited dials.
Schauers production is limited to 500 handmade watches each year. This makes a Schauer timepiece to something special and we hope that you enjoy the short journey through our webpage and the world of Jörg Schauers philosophy of watchmaking.

1990年，22岁时，Jörg Schauer成为了独立制表人。他的目标是结合特殊的设计要求与技术解决方案，制造出高级腕表。
在初始阶段，这一目标的达成是依靠向有实力的客户定制钟表－表壳主要采用黄金或白金。但很快他也开始按自己个人品味来造表。5年内有超过400支表诞生；它们被销往世界各地，并有不少成为收藏品。
1995年，他开展在Engelsbrand/黑森林建立“Jörg Schauer”品牌的计划，并推出第一代作品。品牌商标是12个螺钉固定的边框。



设计，原型试制，机芯改造及美化，表壳制造，表盘的喷漆以及印字－都是由Jörg Schauer自己以及他那支人数很少、具有中高水平的合作者完成（宁可从当地的供应商处获得必要的支持）。这种运作的合作模式使Jörg Schauer多年来能够保持他所获得的灵活性－尽管经历系列化生产的更迭，用户仍能获得装有古老库存机芯或限量版表盘的表款。
Schauer产品被限量于每年500支手工表的规模。这使得Schauer表彰显特殊。我们希望您能享受在我们网页的短暂旅程，以及Jörg Schauer制表理念的世界。

***************************************************************************

Milling the gold hands
Processing the milled gold hands is a time-consuming task..
The lateral surface of the hand,for example, is manually filed (Figure 5), sanded down and then mattfinished (Figure 8). To obtain the round "indicator eye" (Figure 7), a stop-drill is used to mill a fine radius.
铣金指针
对铣好的金指针进行处理是个费时的工作。
例如，指针的侧面需要手工锉（图5）、砂纸打磨及亚光处理（图8）。为得到圆的指针眼孔（图7），采用限位钻头来精细加工。


















Grinding by hand
Jörg Schauer loves surfaces.
This is why he always grinds them himself. Critical points,for example the surface between the lugs, must be arduou-sly ground by hand (Figure 1).Finally, each housing is provided with its final surface quality by using a special mattfinishing sponge (Figure 4).
手工打磨
Jörg Schauer 喜欢表面处理
这就是为什么他经常亲自打磨。一些临界点，比如表耳之间的表面，必须小心仔细地手工打磨（图1）。最后，用特制的亚光打磨海棉对每个表壳进行最终表面效果处理（图4）。










Printing watch faces
The prototypes, figures and special serial numbers are printed with the aid of a pad-printing machine by Schauer.
Years of experience are required to achieve a clean print quality. Jörg Schauer has been printing for over 15 years.
印刷表盘
原型表、数字、特殊序列号由Schauer借助一台移印机进行印制。
要获得清晰的印刷质量必须有数年的经验。Jörg Schauer已经印了15年以上。














Polishing the housings
This is Schauer`s favourite.
His unique polishing method results in a special surface. This is why each "Schauer housing" can be renovated to look like new, even after many years. This is highly appreciated by his customers.
抛光表壳
这是Schauer的最爱
他以独特的抛光方法获得了特殊的表面效果。这是为什么每一个“Schauer表壳”在多年后经修复仍然看起来像新的一样。这一点是他的用户高度赞许的。


















Turning the housings
Gold and platinum housings and prototypes are produced on the company´s own machines.
During his early years, Schauer produced more than 400 unique housings made from gold, platinum and stainless steel. New models are therefore developed "on the machine" and on the arm of the watchmaker". In addition, the watchmaker really enjoys working on these machines, some of which are very old.
车制表壳
金、白金表壳和原型表壳是用公司的机床加工的。
早期，Schauer采用金、白金及不锈钢制造了四百多只独特表壳。新型号发展为“机制”及由制表工协助加工。另外，制表工们真的很乐于用这些机器进行工作，他们有的人已经很大岁数。










Milling / engraving
This is Schauer´s favourite machine.
Here, for example, he is producing the solid gold 18-carat hand for the single-hand gold watch. Rotors are, however, also used to create individual engravings (Figure 4).
铣/雕刻
这是Schauer最爱的机器
比如，这是他在加工用于单指针金表的18K金指针。当然，转陀也用于创作个人雕刻（图4）。














Pressing in the glass
Schauer watches only make use of sapphire glass.
Each housing and each base are glazed by Schauer himself or by a member of his team. Of course, all housing base glasses are made from scratch-resistant material (sapphire = corundum = hardness 9). This optimally protects your clockwork while still allowing you to see it "at work".
压装表镜
Schauer手表只使用蓝宝石表镜
每个表壳和背底都是由Schauer自己或团队的一个成员装镜的。当然，所有表镜都是由防刮材料（蓝宝石＝刚玉＝硬度9）制造。这使你在能欣赏到机芯工作的同时使手表得到最佳防护。










Grinding the rotors
The hand-made rotors are produced from German Silver and personally ground by Schauer, piece by piece.
The deep lasering is carried out by a regional specialist.
打磨转舵
手工制造的转舵是采用德国银为材料，并由Schauer亲自一件一件打磨而成。
激光刻字是外委当地行家加工的。








Pressing rotor bearings
The rotor bearings are the heart of the automatic winding device and must be made to fit exactly.
For many years now, Schauer has been producing the rotor for many movements himself.
压装转舵轴承
转舵轴承是自动发条机构的心脏，必须精确装配。
多年以来，Schauer已经为很多机芯亲自加工转舵。








Blueing the screws
Polishing, several cleaning cycles and careful blueing over a flame.
The result should be a beautiful cornflower blue. Schauer´s watchmakers can do this better than their boss.
螺丝发蓝
抛光，多道清洁，用火焰小心烤蓝
结果是获得漂亮的矢车菊蓝色。这道工序Schauer的工人们可以比他们老板做得更好。










Watchmakers
All of Schauer´s watchmakers have enjoyed excellent training.
This is your guarantee of reliability and the best possible service, even if it might take some time. Everyone is working to capacity and has been booked out for months in advance.
制表工
所有Schauer的制表工都受过优良的培训。
这是给您的可靠性保证和最好的服务，即使这可能要多费一些时间。所有人都在为产能而工作，并已提前几个月预定一空。













[ 本帖最后由 12ax7 于 2009-10-30 14:57 编辑 ]

野云孤飞

此等好帖，必须要顶！！！

12ax7

谢谢加分！

以上介绍是针对Schauer品牌手表制作过程的，是否Stowa也是如此，我一直没有得到求证，不过想来也差不多。Stowa是Jörg Schauer在1996年接手的，应该算作Schauer的子品牌，而不是说Schauer是Stowa旗下，这从Schauer网站关于ANTEA 获奖的文字中可以得到佐证：

For the first time, a watch of the STOWA sub-brand made it to first place. The STOWA best- seller brand won first prize in the category up to 500.—Euro

头一回，一支来自Stowa子品牌的手表登了顶，这支Stowa最畅销表款获得了2005年德国“金摆轮奖”500欧元以下级别的第一名。


也许Schauer和Stowa本来就是二位一体的，Stowa走低端平民路线，以复刻历史为卖点；Schauer走中高端路线（其售价也在1500～2000欧水平），以特色和定制为卖点。

[ 本帖最后由 12ax7 于 2009-10-30 10:37 编辑 ]

simon-song

学习了，辛苦[s:112] [s:112] [s:112] [s:112]

lz_ren

不看不知道啊。谢谢楼主的转帖。

sly2000

好帖，长知识了，谢谢分享！

sneak

好帖，可惜等得我花儿都谢了[s:122]

雨林木风

个人感觉Schauer的表应该是老板亲力亲为，而Stowa应该是老板底下的小兵做的。要不Stowa这样的定量，老板干不过来，不过Stowa自从Schauer接手后，质量比以前有很大提升。说点题外话，中国的表业老板有几个自己会做表的，退一步说，是否对自己厂出的表完全了解呢？国外有名表厂的老板全是自己掌握着核心技术[s:93] [s:120]

bluewangpengyu

他们老板在制作的是哪款啊？LZ发个这款表的照片吧~貌似很好看！还真没捡过STOWA的这款

12ax7

说说我自己的看法：
在挪亚的那个帖子里，也见到不少朋友表露出看不上这个作坊式小厂的简陋。
没错，这就是一个不大的作坊工厂，没有几个员工，很多工作还要老板亲自操刀，设备也很原始，手动控制为主，没见到任何与数控沾边的。想想那些高产能的厂家，低端的如CASIO，其装配线上可以见到FANUC机器人在忙碌；高端的如ROLEX，采用激光设备进行调校（想必加工环节也少不了高精度NC设备），这的确是完全不同的两种境地。
但Schauer/Stowa既然还生存着，而且受到市场(虽然不大)的欢迎，我想它这些“简陋”的设备目前至少还是够用的。
手摇设备？加工中心？只是手段而已，大批量生产有大批量生产的组织方式和设备需求，小批量、定制化生产有小批量的特点。对于很依赖从业人员技能的制表业来说，除了设备保证外，还有很多其它重要的因素。
其实我自己是比较喜欢Schauer/Stowa这种特色的。比如上至老板，下到员工，都对制表充满热爱，并享受其中的乐趣；虽然产能不大，在订单饱满的情况下，也没有像我们国内企业那样加班加点，多多益善，或者萝卜快了不洗泥，这种工作生活哲学让人羡慕。
他们的工作风格，就如同Stowa的产品一样：朴实而洗练，简单而细致，平和而淡定。

12ax7

原帖由 bluewangpengyu 于 2009-10-30 09:16 发表
他们老板在制作的是哪款啊？LZ发个这款表的照片吧~貌似很好看！还真没捡过STOWA的这款

他做的是Schauer品牌的定制表，不属于Stowa表款，具体作品可以看我帖子最前头那个原网站链接，里面的Collection部分有详细的照片展示，摄影水平不错，这里链两张：




[ 本帖最后由 12ax7 于 2009-10-30 10:39 编辑 ]

12ax7

再追加一段关于Jörg Schauer的翻译：


1990, at the age of 22, Jörg Schauer becomes an independent watchmaker. His target is to manufacture high-class wrist watches which combine demanding technical solutions with exceptional design.
At the beginning, this target is achieved by constructing timepieces to the ideals of competent customers - the cases are manily made of gold or platinum. But soon he also starts to create watches pleasing his personal taste. Within 5 years more than 400 watches are made; they sell worldwide and make entrance into many collections.
1995 he carries out his plan to establish the brand "Jörg Schauer” in Engelsbrand/Black Forest, and presents the first collection. Trademark is a twelvefold screwed on bezel.
Design, prototype production, movement modification and refinement, case production, coating of the dials with fine lacquer and printing of the typographical versions on those - all this is accomplished by Jörg Schauer and his few, above-average qualified co-workers. (Necessary support is preferably obtained from suppliers of the region.)
This comprehensive range of activities enables Jörg Schauer to maintain the flexibility he achieved over the years - despite the switch to serial manufacture, customers can still have (serial) models which contains old stock movements or limited dials.
Schauers production is limited to 500 handmade watches each year. This makes a Schauer timepiece to something special and we hope that you enjoy the short journey through our webpage and the world of Jörg Schauers philosophy of watchmaking.




1990年，22岁时，Jörg Schauer成为了独立制表人。他的目标是结合特殊的设计要求与技术解决方案，制造出高级腕表。
在初始阶段，这一目标的达成是依靠向有实力的客户定制钟表－表壳主要采用黄金或白金。但很快他也开始按自己个人品味来造表。5年内有超过400支表诞生；它们被销往世界各地，并有不少成为收藏品。
1995年，他开展在Engelsbrand/黑森林建立“Jörg Schauer”品牌的计划，并推出第一代作品。品牌商标是12个螺钉固定的边框。
设计，原型试制，机芯改造及美化，表壳制造，表盘的喷漆以及印字－都是由Jörg Schauer自己以及他那支人数很少、具有中高水平的合作者完成（宁可从当地的供应商处获得必要的支持）。这种运作的合作模式使Jörg Schauer多年来能够保持他所获得的灵活性－尽管经历系列化生产的更迭，用户仍能获得装有古老库存机芯或限量版表盘的表款。
Schauer产品被限量于每年500支手工表的规模。这使得Schauer表彰显特殊。我们希望您能享受在我们网页的短暂旅程，以及Jörg Schauer制表理念的世界。

[ 本帖最后由 12ax7 于 2009-10-31 15:24 编辑 ]

12ax7

The history of STOWA

The story of STOWA begins with Walter Storz.
In 1927, he decided to branch out from his father's large watch factory in Hornberg/Kinzigtal, Germany, and establish his own company.
The name he chose for his new company was taken from his own name: S-T-O being the first letters of his surname, and W-A being the first letters of his first name. It goes without saying that Walter Storz's talent for arranging things beautifully extended well beyond letters.
Encouraged by the success of STOWA, Walter Stowa enlarged the scope of his business in 1935 and began manufacturing his watches in a small rented space located in Pforzheim, Germany.
In 1938, STOWA was successful enough that he built his own factory.
In just eleven years, STOWA had made for itself a global reputation as the maker of quality timepieces.
On February 23, 1945, the STOWA factory was destroyed.
Undeterred, Walter Storz promptly began construction on another factory. While construction was under way, he moved his company to Rheinfelden, Germany, where he continued to manufacture his watches. Among other design inventions, STOWA created shock protection (RUFA), which is still used in many PUW and Durowe watch movements today.
After WWII, when construction of the new factory in Pforzheim was complete, Walter Storz kept both factories open, which exponentially increased watch production. Exports rose almost 50%, and STOWA watches were distributed to nearly 80 countries worldwide.
In the early 1960s, Walter Storz's son, Werner, joined STOWA.
Werner Storz's primary responsibility was to relieve his father of the strenuous overseas trips. For three decades, Werner Storz successfully managed STOWA, until he found a successor in Jörg Schauer, whose philosophy was in keeping with the intentions of the Storz family. Since taking over, Jörg Schauer has continued the uninterrupted manufacture of STOWA watches..
STOWA is still making watch history today.
Our 2007 collection includes the Antea line, the Airman line, the Marine line, the Sport Watch line, and the Exima line.


STOWA的历史

STOWA的历史从Walter Storz先生开始。
1927年，他决定离开他父亲位于德国Hornberg/Kinzigtal的大型制表厂，建立属于自己的公司。
他为新公司起的名字来源于他自己的名字：S-T-O是姓氏的首写字母，W-A来自于他的名。不用说，Walter Storz的管理才能远远超出他排列字母的本事。
受到STOWA成功的鼓舞，Walter Storz先生在1935年扩大了生意范围，并开始在位于德国Pforzheim的很小的租用场地上生产自己的手表。
1938年，STOWA已足以成功地建立自己的工厂。
在随后的11年（注，怀疑原文笔误，是否应为7年）里，STOWA靠制造优质钟表为自己赢得了世界范围的声誉。
1945年2月23日，STOWA工厂被摧毁。
Walter Storz先生顽强地又立刻开始另一工厂的建设。建设过程中，他将公司迁到德国Rheinfelden，在那里继续制造他的手表。除了其它设计发明，STOWA创造了防震系统（RUFA），到今天仍然应用在PUW和Durowe手表机芯中。
二战后，当在Pforzheim的新工厂完工时，Walter Storz拥有两家保持开工的工厂，这极大地扩大了手表产能。出口量增长了50％，STOWA手表销往世界近80个国家。
在六十年代早期，Walter Storz的儿子Werner加入了STOWA。
Werner Storz的首要责任是缓解父亲的繁重的海外旅行。
随后30年，Werner Storz成功地经营着STOWA，直到他找到一个继任者Jörg Schauer，其理念仍保持Storz家族的延续。接任后，Jörg Schauer继续着STOWA手表不曾间断的制造。
今天，STOWA仍在制造手表的历史。
2007年的产品系列包括：Antea系列， Airman 系列，Marine系列，运动表系列，及 Exima 系列。

[ 本帖最后由 12ax7 于 2009-10-31 14:42 编辑 ]

12ax7

位于Englesbrand的STOWA博物馆，图片来自国外论坛：







STOWA 历史上的手表款式：






















[ 本帖最后由 12ax7 于 2009-11-3 10:50 编辑 ]

12ax7

STOWA 历史上的手表款式（二）：

12ax7

STOWA 历史上的手表款式（三）：

12ax7

STOWA 历史上的手表款式（四）：

12ax7

13楼是STOWA官网上的历史介绍。

以下是STOWA官方网站论坛里的关于历史的帖子，比13楼内容丰富一点，我也转贴一下，英文的，等有时间再翻译：

1927 Stowa is founded by Walter Storz in Hornberg/Kinzigtal. STO (Storz), WA (Walter)
1935 Stowa moves to Pforzheim, production of watches started in a rented space
1938 An own factory building is ready, located at the Bismarckstrasse 54, Pforzheim
1938 Presentation of some Bauhaus watches ("precursors" of the Antea models)
1939 Manufacturing of the 55mm Stowa Flieger watch
23.02.1945 The factory building was destroyed close to the end of WW II
1945 Stowa moves to Rheinfelden (which is a small town close to the Swiss-German border) and re-starts producing watches
1947 Walter Storz becomes founder member of the german "Uhrenindustrieverband" (Watch Industry Association)
1949 The "Deutsche Uhrenkooperation" (German Watch Cooperation) was founded by Philipp Weber under the brandname PARAT.
There isn´t much to read about the Parat Cooperation but from what I could find out the Arctos Uhrenfabrik Philipp Weber, Berg Uhrenfabrik (Berg was re-launched by W. Schumacher/HeinrichGeisen watches), Wilhelm Beutter, Osco Uhrenfabrik, Otto Schlund (brand was currently re-launched) and Stowa joined this co-op.
When wholesalers got into economical troubles and decided to sell the PARAT-collection to greater department stores the cooperation lost a lot of money and disappeared from the market.
1951 A new production facility is set up at Rheinfelden. At the same time, the building in Pforzheim was reconstructed, and the production capacity of both factories was expanded enormously. The proportion of exports rose to almost 50%, and STOWA watches were distributed to some 80 countries worldwide.
1954 Foundation of the RUFA (Rheinfelder Uhrteilefabrik / Rheinfelder watch part factory), production of shock protection for PUW (Pforzheimer Uhrenwerke) and Durowe (Deutsche Uhren Rohwerke).
DUROWE is now owned by Jörg Schauer (www.durowe.com).
1960 Werner Storz took over responsibilities at Stowa (mainly covering the overseas markets)
1963 The brand name "STOWA Seatime" is registered as a trade mark.
1970 STOWA launched the" smallest alarm watch of the world ("Kleinster Wecker der Welt" at the Hannover fair. At this time the Stowa collection is made of 1000 models !
1974 Walter Storz dies.
1974 STOWA gets partner of the German Watch Cooperation "Pallas". Other partners: PaRa (Paul Raff), Arctos, Hugo Weinmann (brand: Exquisit), Ormo.
Paul Raff was one of the men who founded Pallas.
Somehow a new marketing strategy in 1970 by using synergetic effects - that´s what it is called nowadays. (So it is quite possible to fetch a Stowa Pallas or Pallas Stowa or just a Pallas on ebay or elsewhere).
1996 Werner Storz continued to manage STOWA’s business until 1996. He found a successor (Jörg Schauer), who took over and continued the production of STOWA watches.
1997 70th anniversary of Stowa and launch of the limted Flieger with an Unitas cal. 6300N.
1998 Werner Storz died.
2002 75th anniversary. Presentation of the limited pilot´s watch "Bremen D 1167".
2007 80th anniversary with some limited Flieger watches.

[ 本帖最后由 12ax7 于 2009-10-31 15:15 编辑 ]

12ax7

自2002年起，属于Jörg Schauer所有的Durowe机芯：
Durowe 7440，在6498基础上由Jörg Schauer设计





Durowe工厂：





采用Durowe机芯的STOWA表：

issacyou

期待拥有一款杜威机芯的airman