我已将重点英文部分翻译成中文,以方便大家阅读。如发现错误,请给予指正,谢谢。
帝舵计时表 1970-1980
In 1970 Tudor introduced their first Chronograph. Thereference 7031. The design of the Chronograph itself is very similar to that ofthe Rolex counterpart. However there is a few differences. The cases are more"fat" and taller than the Rolex versions. The watches feature amanual wind movement and a two register chronograph function. What really makethese watches unique is the very iconic 1970's dial design. This design hasfollowed the next 2 variations of the Tudor Chronograph which is aprodcution model thru 1970-1980.
帝舵于1970年推出其首款计时表款,型号为7031。 此计时设计与之相对应的劳力士版本非常相似,但还是会有一些不同。7031的外壳相较于劳力士版本会更加圆滑。此表搭配有手动上弦机芯和两个计时单位功能。标志性的1970年代表盘风格设使得7031独树一帜,非常独特。这个设计也随即被延续运用到了1970-1980年代中的后两代产品中。
Tudor 7169/0, 1970's早期
帝舵计时 ref.7031/7032.
The first Chronographs are called "Homeplate" bycollectors. This is due to the unique looking tritium markers. As far as we cansee they were introduced in 1970. The last ones seen have serials correspondingto circa 1972. This is a very short production run
帝舵计时 ref.7031/7032.
第一款计时表被收藏者称为“本垒板”,这要归属其独特的氙夜光时标。此系列存在时间很短暂,从1970年的第一款引入时间到1972年的末端产品。
Ref.7032
The above 7032 sports the '500 tachy dial - solidfitted bezel. The movement in the 7031/32 is a Valjoux 7734. Which is amanual wind movement. Note the date window at 6 is uniquely "turned"and is in fact a standard cyclope that is fitted turned half way comparedto ordinary Rolex cyclopes. The Reference 128 crystal is only used on the 2register models - 70xx and 71xx models.
图中的7302运动款为500测速表圈,(补充一下此点知识:一般带秒表功能的手表外圈会刻有500/400/350等依次减小的数字,这些代表的物理量为速度,单位为公里/小时;这个表圈称为TACHYMETER(测速计)。如一辆车在固定一公里或一英哩的平均速度。以测车速方法为例,当车子以路旁的里程标作基准点前进时,开始激活定时器,当车到达下一个里程标示点,定时器按停,定时器指针停留在计速器刻度上的位置即是这部汽车的时速,如1,000公尺使用了45秒,则可换算为车行时速80公里。) ref.7031/32 搭配Valjoux 7734 手动上弦机芯。较劳力士版本,此计时款独特的在6时处安置鱼泡眼日期显示器。 Ref.128水晶只被应用在了双计时功能款中-70** 和71**款。
ref.7032 第一代圆滑表壳,原始表冠和计时按钮
Bracelets on the Tudor Chronos is a sketchy area. Rolex ingeneral has had the option of up or downgrading bracelets depending on what thecustomer wanted. However, in general - it is our experince that the 7031/32were fitted on Rolex 7836 folded bracelets fitted with 380 endpieces. It isquite interesting that they chose the 380 endpieces on these as it is actuallya quite poor fit. Later in the 1970s by the introduction of the Reference 94203 register chrono we begin seeing Ref 589 endpieces which are higher than the380 - and that are flush fit to the case. Most collectors retrofit the 589endpieces to also the older versions of 2 register chronos. All resourcesindicate that 589 endpieces were in fact never factory delivered on the 2register chronos. 589 endpieces are no longer in production. 380 and 380b aresometimes seen in junk drawers at authorized dealers. Most dealer fit generic501 endpieces at service. These are a poor fit.
帝舵计时的表带定位很粗犷。 劳力士会根据顾客需求来定位如何配备高低端表带。然而根据实际情况,7031/32被配上了劳力士7836扣式表带和(380 endpieces/20.0mm)表耳弹簧针. 在1970年后期推出的ref.9420 3三计时功能表款上配备了 比380版本高的589 表耳弹簧针. 许多收藏家喜欢将老的双计时功能表款上的表耳弹簧针换成589 版本。所有信息指示双计时功能表款没有装配原厂的589表耳弹簧。589版本此时已经停产。在一些授权代理商的货柜中还能看见一些380和380b版本。 更多的代理商会选择广泛应用的501版本。
ref.7032
Inverted dial color combination also exists. Its hard todetermine if the base grey or the base black is the rarest. it's a question ofcondition. In general fewer black dial 70xx are seen. However, most of theygrey, have the classic spotting in the grey area.
混合对比色的表盘同样存在。但很难确定灰底色或是黑底色的表盘会是最稀有少见的。这要取决于保养状况。通常来说,黑色表盘的70**很少见到。 最长见的还是灰色多些,带有经典运动的灰色盘面。
ref.7031 6263风格表圈和灰色表盘
ref.7031
ref.7031
ref.7032
TudorChronograph Reference 7149 / 7159 / 7169.
In 1972Tudor altered the Chronograph line. It is unknown why the 7031/32 had such ashort production run, however the 71xx series appeared approximatly two yearsafter the old series started. The new version was also a 2 registerchronograph. It came in three case variations.
7149. Features a classic Rolex Daytona 6263 style bakelitebezel. Exists in black or blue versions.
7159. Features a solid metal bezel similar to the Rolex6265 bezel design. Tachymetre goes to '500.
7169. Features a metal bezel insert that is turnable. Thisis a unique Tudor design. Exists in black and blue.
帝舵计时表款 ref.7149/7159/7169
1972年帝舵调整了计时表款生产线。我们并不知道为什么7031/32会有如此短暂的寿命,71**系列在老款诞生后存在了大约2年时间。 新款同样是双计时功能,配有三种表壳。
7149: 特征是劳力士经典daytona6263款式的树脂表圈。有黑和蓝版本。
7159: 配装有与劳力士6265相同设计的金属固体表圈。500计速功能。
7169: 配装可旋转式的金属表圈。这是帝舵的一个独特设计。有黑和蓝版本。
ref.7159表圈 稀有的哑光面
ref.7159表圈背面
There issome confusion in the collectors community regd the reference numbers. Ingeneral Rolex ran four digit reference numbers untill the mid 1970's. Thenintroduced the fifth digit with a /. Eg. 7169/0. Shortly after again - approxlate 1970's Tudor used 5 digit reference numbers without the /. During myresearch I have not found a structures system as to when these referenceswere altered for the specific models. It seems to me that the different modelshad the changes applied over a period of time - perhaps as much as 5years. (1970-75). This means that you can see /0 reference numbersin 1972-73 for the chronos - but for the Submariners they did not changeuntill 75-76. The 71xx series has been seen with and without the / designation.5 digit numbers without / (f.ex. 71690) does not exist for the 71xx series.
在收藏界中,关于手表的型号编号问题一直会对大家造成一些困扰。通常来说,劳力士在70年代中期前都采用四位编号法。之后才有像7169/0这样的5位编码。大约在70年代后期,帝舵使用了5位编码,其中省掉“/”符号。通常规律来看不同款式的表会维持大概5年左右的稳定期。也就是说你会在1972至1973年间发现以“/0”结尾编号的计时表款。但对于水鬼系列来说,这样的编号一直持续到1975至76年间。71**系列会以有“/”或无“/”来编号的形式同时出现。对于71**系列来说,不含有“/”于5位编号中的手表还未出现过。
ref.7169/0 灰/橙 “蒙特卡罗”
The Grey /Orange 71xx series almost always has light gray spots on the large greysurface. The will look like small bubbles or spots of water. It is unknown whyTudor chronos decay in this manner but considering the massive paint problemsseen on the Submariners - especially the 7021/16 and early 9401/9411 which aremade in the same time frame as the chronos, it is logical to conclude that itis a general problem with tudors of this vintage.
灰/橙 71**系列的表款盘面上几乎都会被发现存在淡灰点,看起来就像小水泡一样的浸渍斑迹。尚不清楚为何帝舵计时表款会有如此明显的退色过程,但是考虑到出现在水鬼系列身上的大量喷涂技术问题(尤其是与计时表款采用同种框架材料的7021/16和早期的9401/9411表款),不由让人合理的认为这是帝舵在那个时期普遍存在的一个技术问题。
ref.7159/0 1972年款搭配哑光表圈 注意表盘上的灰色斑点
The 71xxseries all feature a manual wind Valjoux Cal. 234, 17 ruby movement. Thewatches are water proof till 50 meters. Similar to the 703x series they featurethe Cyclope 128 plexi crystal.
71**系列都装配有 Valjoux Cal.234 手动上弦机芯(17颗人造宝石),并有50米防水能力。与703*系列相似,配备了带有鱼泡眼的128塑胶玻璃镜面。
TudorChronograph Reference 9420 / 9430 / 94200 / 94300.
The 94xxseries is the first automatic Tudor Chronograph. It features the Valjoux Cal.7750 workhorse. A classic movement still in use today. When these wereintroduced in still a bit sketchy but the serial number project indicates thatthey were introduced around 1976.
This meanswere a looking at the following timeline:
703x:1970-72
71xx: Late1972 - 1975
94xx: Circa1976 - 1982.
帝舵计时款 ref.9420/9430/94200/94300.
94**计时系列是帝舵最早的自动上弦手表。 装配了Valjoux Cal.7750 机芯。这是一款经典的并沿用至今的机芯。此机芯出现的时间大概在1976年。
下面是出现的时间范畴:
703x:1970-72
71xx: Late 1972-1975
94xx: Circa 1976-1982.
ref.9420/0 稀有蓝色
ref.9421/0. 可旋转表圈. 罕有的MK1 蒙特卡罗面盘
9420/0 -Bakelite fixed bezel
9421/0 - Rotating bezel
9430/0 - Fixed Metal bezel
94200- Bakelite fixed bezel
94210 - Rotating bezel
94300 - Fixed metal bezel
翻译对照:
9420/0-固定酚醛树脂表圈
9421/0-可旋转表圈
9430/0-可旋转金属表圈
94200-固定酚醛树脂表圈
94210-可旋转表圈
94300—固定金属表圈
The last Monte Carlo variation is shown below. Its seen in general on watches with no / in the reference number.
下面所示的是蒙特卡罗系列的最后一款。在手表编号中没有出现“/”符号。
ref.94300
Monte CarloWatch Dial Variations
MK1. 2 Register
HomeplateBlack base dial with grey area subdials.
HomeplateGrey base dial with black area subdials.
MK2. 2Register
71xx Series,Grey base dial with orange secondary color
71xx Series,Grey base dial with blue secondary color
MK1. 3Register
94xx/0Series, Grey base dial with orange secondary color
94xx/0Series, Grey base dial with blue secondary color
MK2. 3Register
94xxx, Blackbase dial w. orange secondary color
中文对照:
蒙特卡罗系列表圈演绎史
MK1.2 Register
本垒板黑色底盘/灰色副盘
本垒板灰色底盘/黑色副盘
MK2.2 Register
71**系列,灰色底盘/混合橙色
71**系列,灰色底盘/混合蓝色
Mk1.3 Register
94**/0 系列, 灰色底盘/混合橙色
94**/0 系列, 灰色底盘/混合蓝色
MK2.3 Register
94***, 黑色底盘/混合橙色
[ 本帖最后由 aceone 于 2011-3-19 05:11 编辑 ] |