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ytfyx 发表于 2014-3-15 18:50 
这一款应该是ETA7750的基础机芯吧
上论坛多时，经常看到不少表友迷恋于品牌的自产机芯，而对于以公用芯为基础的机芯不屑一顾，今天刚好在某国外网站看到一篇鬼佬的短文，很有感触。
草草翻译一下，供大家讨论讨论~
（论坛高人无数，译得不好，拍砖扔鸡蛋都可以。。。）
In many cases, watch factories modify these base calibers and sell them under their own name. While I was working my way through the "Uhrenkatalog" to compile the "manufactories" list, I noticed that the catalog usually lists both the proper caliber name and the caliber on which it is based, and I thought that you might be interested in this information. It might even influence your buying decisions when you are interested in a certain caliber.
You should, however, consider that a company modifies these calibers when it gives them their own name and decide what is important for you. Such modifications may include a new balance, usually include hand finishing of plate and/or bridges and in some cases, the base caliber is really only the "base" to which some additional functions are added.
This point is impressively illustrated when you look at Chronoswiss C.732 in comparison to its base caliber ETA/Valjoux 7750: There is a world of difference! In C.732, the calendar disc is removed, hour and minute hands are placed excentrically, and, above all, Chronoswiss adds their own patented modifications to make it a split second chronograph ("chronographe rattrapante").
Do not overestimate the term "base caliber" - the differences can be enormous!
One company should be mentioned here for its excellent information policy: Oris includes detailed information about all movements in their "High Mech Booklet," and they are not afraid to publicly state that, e.g., the Oris 640 is based on the ETA 2836-2. (By the way: I have an Oris "Big Crown" with a 640 - the watch is not a certified chronometer, but it is accurate to one second per day! Careful finishing of large series calibers can produce extraordinary results.) It would be nice if other companies would follow Oris' example!
在很多情况下，手表厂商改装公用机芯后以重新命名的自家机芯型号出售。当我致力于通过“Uhrenkatalog”编纂厂方机芯名录时（什么是“Uhrenkatalog”俺不懂，好像是德文），我发现在此目录中列出了厂家自家机芯号以及它们相对应的公用基础机芯号。我想您可能对此感兴趣，因为当您看中某款机芯时，这些资料实际上很可能影响您的购买决定。
实际上，当厂商改装公用机芯并重新命名机芯号后，您应该考虑的是，究竟什么才是对您最重要的。类似的改装可能包括新的平衡装置，通常还包括对机芯夹板和板桥的手工打磨。在这种情况下，所谓的基础机芯对比厂商所增加的其他功能组件来说完全真的可以称作仅仅是“基础”而已了。
举例来说，当您欣赏Chronoswiss瑞宝机芯732时，如果您同时比较一下它的基础芯：ETA7750，这简直就是另一个世界。瑞宝732移除了7750的日历盘，时轮和分轮被移离中央位置，更重要的是：瑞宝还加装了他专利的秒计时组件。
所以，请不要过于困扰于所谓的“公用基础机芯”，它经过改装后的变化可能是极其巨大的。
在这里有必要特别提一下一家公布机芯信息资料非常完整的厂商：Oris豪力时，这个品牌在它的“高级机芯手册”里公布了他所有机芯的技术资料，并没有因羞于使用公用机芯而刻意隐瞒相关的数据。比如说，它明确说明了Oris 640是基于ETA 2836-2而来。（顺便说一下，我有一只Oris的“Big Crown”，机芯就是640，虽然它没有天文台认证，可是每天的误差只有一秒钟，可见只要对于基础公用机芯做全面细致的高质量打磨，就能给机芯素质带来翻天覆地的改变）。其他厂商真的应该像Oris好好学习了。
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狗仔卡
发表于 2014-3-15 14:44:56
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